散文:黎明前的北京

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散文:黎明前的北京

黎明前的北京

前后加起来,我在北京已经住了四十多年,算是一个老北京了。②北京的名胜古迹,北京的妙处,③我应该说是了解的;其他老北京当然也了解,但是有一点,我相信绝大多数的老北京并不了解,④这就是黎明时分以前的北京。

多少年来,我养成了一个习惯:每天早晨四点在黎明以前起床工作。我不出去跑步或散步,而是一下床就干活儿,因此我对黎明前的北京的了解是在屋子里感觉到的。我从前在什么报上读过一篇文章,⑤讲黎明时分天安门广场上的清洁工人。那情景必然是非常动人的,可惜我从未能见到,只是心向往之而已。

四十年前,我住在城里在明朝曾经是特务机关的东厂里面。几座深深的大院子,在最里面三个院子里只住着我一个人,朋友们都说这地方阴森可怕,晚上很少有人敢来找我,我则恰然自得。⑥每当夏夜,我起床以后,立刻就闻到院于里那些高大的马缨花树散发出来的阵阵幽香,这些香气破窗而入,我于此时神清气爽,乐不可支,连手中那一支笨拙的笔也仿佛生了花。

几年以后,我搬到西郊来往,照例四点起床,坐在窗前工作。白天透过窗子能够看到北京展览馆那金光闪闪的高塔的尖顶,此时当然看不到了。⑦但是,我知道,即使我看不见它,它仍然在那里挺然耸人天空,仿佛想带给人以希望,以上进的劲头。我仍然是乐不可支,心也仿佛飞上了高空。

过了十年,我又搬了家。这新居既没有马缨花,也看不到金色的塔顶,但是门前却有一片清碧的荷塘。刚搬来的几年,池塘里还有荷花。夏天早晨四点已经算是黎明时分。在薄暗中透过窗子可以看到接大莲叶,而荷花的香气也幽然袭来,⑧我顾而乐之,大有超出马缨花和金色塔顶之上的意味了。

难道我欣赏黎明前的北京仅仅由于上述的原因吗?不是的。三十几年以来,我成了一个会迷。⑨说老实话,积三十年之经验,我真有点怕开会了,在白天,一整天说不定什么时候就会接到开会的通知,说一句过火的话,我简直是提心吊胆,心里不得安宁。即使不开会,这种惴惴不安的心情总摆脱不掉。只有在黎明以前,根据我的经验,没有哪里会来找你开会的。⑩因此,我起床什桌子旁边一坐,仿佛有什么近似条件反射的东西立刻就起了作用,我心里安安静静,一下子进入角色,拿起笔来,文思⑾(如果也算是文思的话)如,泉水喷涌,记忆力也像刚磨过的刀于,锐不可当。此时,我真是乐不可支,如果给我机会的话,我简直想手舞足蹈了。

因此,我爱北京,特别爱黎明前的北京。

Predawn Beijing Ji Xianlin

Translated by Zhang Peiji

i’ve been in Beijing altogether for over 40 years. So i can well call myself a long-timer of Beijing. Like all other long-timers of the city, i’m supposed to be very familiar with its scenic spots and historical sites, nay, its superb attractions. But i believe there is one thing lying unknown to most of the long-time residents - the predawn hours of Beijing.

For many years, i have been in the habit of get- ting up before daybreak to start work at four. instead of going out for a jog or walk, i’ 11 set about my work as soon as i’m out of bed. As a result, it is from inside my study that i’ve got the feel of predawn Beijing. Years ago, i hit upon a newspaper article about street cleaners in Tian’anmen Square at daybreak. it must have been a very moving scene, but what a pity i haven’ t seen it with my own eyes. i can only picture it in my


mind longingly.

Forty years ago, i lived downtown in dongchang, a compound which had housed the secret service of the Ming dynasty. There were inside it several deep spacious courtyards one leading into another. i was the sole dweller of the three innermost courtyards. My friends, calling this place too ghastly, seldom dared to come to see me in the evening whereas i myself found it quite agreeable. in summer, the moment i got out of bed before daybreak, i would smell the delicate fragrance of the giant silk trees coming from outside my window. Thereupon, i would feel refreshed and joyful, and the clumsy pen in my hand would seem to have become as agile as it could.


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